Team Limpy and the furious fingering

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As this questionable blog title would have you believe – I’ve been limping a little recently. No biggie, just a few stressed ligaments in one of my knees – maybe a little too much high stepping on slate recently! A quick fix – two weeks off climbing and some magic pills. So unfortunately, not many metres of rock have passed under my hands for the last few weeks. Instead I’ve just been training a little, aiding a little and reading a lot.

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Obsessive beastmaker lock-off sessions with the Dougster – who’s injured his ankle. Together we form – Team limpy!!
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The New Testament – By Chris Macnamara

 

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The Very Old and the Very New (C2+/ C3)

The real training has been the Aid Climbing. After heavy recommendation I’ve ordered Chris Macnamara’s “How to Big Wall Climb”, half instruction manual, half training regime for beginner Big Wallers.

 

Honestly its the absolute business, it covers all the basic aid climbing techniques clearly with photos and suggestions on how to practise them. Chris constantly reminds the reader how important it is to practise your big wall systems and aid techniques before you get on the wall, to avoid being one of the over 60% of teams who bail! So while studying this thing like the bible, I’ve been hitting the quarries with some newly acquired Yates’ Aid Ladders (courtesy of V12 Outdoor) and a worryingly unfamiliar array of bent metal. The objective? The Very old and the Very New, a clean aid hairline crack at the top top top of the Slate Quarries.

 

It’s evil. I’ve had a few goes on it so far, on a top rope. Man oh man. Aid climbing is whole different game. You know when you’re Trad climbing, and you’re getting a little pumped – so you stare down at your last gear and you try and remember how good it is, how far you’re going to fall, staring at that next hold and wondering how long you can hold it for and whether you’ll spin off wildly? Its like that, but for continuous hours at a time.

 

More pictures and a gear feature coming soon! That’s all from injured Cherry at the moment – thanks for playing.

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