Flügger färg!

The four days we’ve been in Sweden have taught us three things.

1. House music can always be found if you scan through enough radio stations.

2. Swedes all drive estates.

3. Bohuslan granite is good. Really good.

“Bo-hu-slan, I told you about it months ago” Andy sounded rather exasperated that I had no idea what he was on about. On the three day/five country drive from Fontainebleau to Sweden he explained that North of Göteborg and South of Oslo was this magical promised land of perfect Granite. All I could think was that it would break up the drive to Flatanger and might be a nice rest.

With a single place name by which to set the sat nav and zero plan other than to spend four days there, we arrived in Hallinden station car-park. Not really knowing what to do next we strolled up to the obvious looking crag half a mile away.

‘Do you have a guide book?’ – ‘errr.. no’
‘So, where do you stay?’ – ‘errr…in the station car park..?’

The two Swiss climbers who greeted us seemed bemused by our lack of preparation but gave us directions to a bunk house (possibly the nicest and cheapest bunkhouse in Scandinavia) and a building you could get a shower in for £1.50, the latter appeared not to have changed since the middle part of the cold war.

The next morning armed with a guidebook bought with pastries from the local corner shop of all places – which also had a colourful collection of DMM gear – we eagerly went to find some rock, Andy keen to prove he was right.

And he was.

Early morning truck stop coffee in Denmark
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The main crag at Galgeberget – a great introduction into Bohuslans friction
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Galgaberget’s main face routes top-out to a fantastic view of the coast.
Stefan 6+
Stefan on En Liten Bit Granit (6)
Cherry 6+
Cherry on En Liten Bit Granit (6)
Cherry Odon
Cherry on Odon (7)
Screenshot (2)
Stefan on Odon (7)
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Hallinden – home of huge classics, and steep cracks.
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Stefan on Prismaster (6)
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Stefan topping out Prismaster (6)
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Stefan’s psych-selfie after topping out Prismaster. “Possibly the best pitch of HVS I’ve ever done. Stunning.”
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Cherry looking not tired at all before his burn on AfterBurner
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The Hallinden main face, as seen from the road.
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Parmesan. Parmesan on everything.
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The bunkhouse is pretty cool…
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“Hello… is it me you’re looking for?”
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One thought on “Flügger färg!

  1. Just read your 2 latest, don’t know why I find them so entertaining but I do! Well written and I’m loving the photos, Sweden looks wicked! Looks like you’re having a fab time, stay safe, don’t die xx

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